Woodworking On The Cheap

Over the last few years I’ve owned and used a few different tools for literally cutting corners. This is a collection of things to consider, and some notes I’ve made along the way with regards to the venerable miter saw / box.

When I was first setting up shop I was doing a lot of trim work in my home. Since moving in, I’ve replaced or refinished all the baseboard, door and window casing, and even a little crown molding. I needed a miter box, or a miter saw. Then I got into real woodworking, and the first project I ever built was a rocking chair for my one-year-old (at the time) niece. To pull off the rocking chair, I purchased a cheap-o bench top table saw. It’s ability to cross-cut was horrendous. Since I was doing a lot of trim work at the time I made the rocking chair, I started looking around at miter saws.

Do you have a good (really true) table saw?

If your answer to this question is, “Yes! My blade is parallel to the miter slot and I have a blade that’s suitable for cross-cutting.” Then you need to consider getting a really, really, good miter gauge, making an inexpensive cross-cut sled, and using your table saw to cut miters. Crosscut sleds can be made inexpensively, and a good miter gauge will give you lots of mileage and improve your work in more ways than you’d normally imagine. One of the best purchases I made was my Osbourne EB-3 which I bought on sale and with a discount coupon at my local Woodcraft store. My total purchase price — after tax — was more than $15 below MSRP! Since getting this miter gauge I’ve noticed a drastic reduction in the amount of time I spend with a miter saw. To the point that I don’t really need my Makita 10″ electric miter saw anymore… at least when I’m doing smaller parts that fit nicely on the table saw — which is 90% of the time, unless I’m doing baseboard or door casing.

When I was starting out, I did not have a good table saw. I purchased a miter saw that I still occasionally use today.

Are you cutting long pieces or making lots of repeat cuts?

If you’re doing trim work for a house, flooring, or other longer-than about 4′ parts, you’re going to want something other than a table saw for doing cross cuts. Especially if you’re trying to preform a lot of repeat cuts. This is where I use my real miter saw. I have a workbench surface that I made with a T-Track in it. I use this T-Track to secure the saw, and a movable stop-block. Using this setup (that cost me about $15 in parts when Rockler ran their 4′ t-track kits on a $6.99 special) I can measure for and make repeat cross-cuts with my miter saw in no time. It’s great for making lots of rails, stiles, or other frame cutting exercises.

Miter Saw Types

For the sake of clarity let’s break these down into a few basic types and then discuss each one.

• Inexpensive Miter Box & Back Saw Combo
• Adjustable Miter Box & Back Saw Combo
• Miter Saw (MS)
• Compound Miter Saw (CMS)
• Sliding Compound Miter Saw (SCMS)

Inexpensive Miter Box & Back Saw Combo

Basically, these are plastic, aluminum, or wooden (if they’re old) boxes without a top. They normally come bundled with a back-saw. The back-saw slides into slots cut into the half-box, and they use the folds or reinforcing back of the saw to prevent the saw from cutting into the box bottom. They mostly work, for a while. Expect to throw a lot of money away if you keep buying these things.

Adjustable Miter Box & Back Saw Combo

A backsaw in a mount, with a protractor, detents, and a base that holds the work piece. These can be as inexpensive as $30 or so dollars, or as expensive as $99 and up. For more details on what to expect from a tool like this, you can see our Real-Life Review of the inexpensive Stanley 20-800. These will last you much longer than an inexpensive miter box & saw combo. My father has one that’s at least forty years old, still sharp, and works great. Depending on the model, these may handle more width and depth than a 10″ MS, or CMS will.

Miter Saw (MS)

A powered miter saw. This is essentially a circular saw mounted perpendicular to a cast base with a fence along the back. These will adjust on one axis, and allow you to lower the circular saw blade into the work. Generally these come in 7″, 10″, and 12″ blade variations, and are often referred to as “cut off” saws in some circles. You can cross-cut a 2×4 on a 10″ model. These work great for small trim, accent pieces, and can reliably cut the most common angles, and normally allow for adjustment to cut custom angles.

Compound Miter Saw (CMS)

This is a Miter Saw with a second axis adjustment, allowing you to cut angles in two planes at once. This is a God-send for doing crown molding, but overkill for just about anything else. The second axis adjustment allows for one more adjustment to be just a hair out of true, which can cause compounding (get it?) problems if you’re assembling a lot of pieces together. These have the same crosscut capacity as a normal Miter Saw, which isn’t much.

Sliding Compound Miter Saw

It’s a CMS that lets you pull the motor and blade toward you like a radial arm saw. Normally these use linear bearings on one or more rod to let you slide the motor toward you. Don’t be fooled. Typically these are not precision tools. The added play from the bearings, wobble of the blade, etc, can cause some pretty bad results from what I’ve read. Especially at the lower end of the price ranges. The expensive SCMSs from what I’ve heard, can be fantastic. If you need a super-portable radial arm saw, this is it. If you’re cutting huge crown moldings, this is the tool to use. If you’re a new hobbiest, don’t waste your money. The only time you should really need this kind of tool is if you’re out somewhere that you cant take along a table saw & miter gauge, radial arm saw, and need to make compound cuts across a very wide board. These are specialized tools that have been marketed as a cure-all for everyone. What a sham(e).

Bottom Line

Figure out what you want to do with a miter saw. Think of how you’ll be using it. Then decide what’s right for you. Most woodworkers can be by without the 12″ CMS with the laser sight. Sure, we’ve all drooled when we watch Norm, and I’ve even purchased a few things after watching Norm work his magic with them. But this is one case where you really don’t need to spend the money. Wide cross-cuts are much better handled on the table saw with a sled — if you’re in the shop. If mobility matters, then perhaps a SCMS is right for you. For me, I have a normal MS, and an adjustable box & saw combination. Coupled with my table saw and my accurate miter gauge, it’s more than enough for me.

Your mileage may vary! Register for an account, leave a comment, and let us know what you’ve been doing, what you wish you could do, and why or why not the tools you have are right for you.